So you’ve decided to convert your vehicle from a gas guzzler to a clean plug-in electric! Or maybe you’re interested in purchasing a vehicle converted to electric. In either case this page will help get you started and give you the basic understanding of how to convert your own vehicle and how to keep your EV maintained.
We will look at the basics of converting your vehicle to electric including the best vehicle to use, differences between batteries, motor, and convert choices, and whether to go with a kit or buy the parts individually.
Often the distributers of EV parts will throw in an installation guide with the purchase of a kit, however it’s advisable to read as much on this subject as possible and see what others have done and issues they’ve had. There are a few manuals you can purchase online as well which can also be helpful.
Before going into specific components and technical aspects we need to cover some basic planning to ease in your conversion. First off you need the room for this project. If you don’t have a garage you can dedicate to this project for at least a month, you might want to consider some alternatives such as a covered car port. This is to provide suitable lighting as well as a dry place to work.
You will also need to think about how and where to properly discard the internal combustion (IC) components. Sell or donate what you can and bring the rest to your local auto wreckers.
One last thought before we get started and that’s regarding the EV components. Unless you’re buying a kit, the components will vary in their delivery time, and this can at times push your deadline out by up to weeks. So it’s a good idea to plan ahead and talk with EV distributers so you have a good idea of shipping times involved.
Please read our disclaimer before proceeding.
Before we get started we need to review basic safety rules.
This list is quite general and is by no means all-inclusive.
This list is to give you an idea of components needed and costs associated. The prices of the components are general and will vary from distributer to distributer. Many give you discounts if you buy kits from them over individual parts. This can also be beneficial in that you know the parts work and fit together.
This is a BOM for a 144V DC System using 12V batteries.
| Item | Description | QTY | Unit Price | Total Price |
| 1 | Motor | 1 | $1,600.00 | $1,600.00 |
| 2 | Controller | 1 | $1,500.00 | $1,500.00 |
| 3 | Heat Sink | 1 | $50.00 | $50.00 |
| 4 | Potbox | 1 | $90.00 | $90.00 |
| 5 | Contractor | 2 | $150.00 | $300.00 |
| 6 | Adapter Plate | 1 | $400.00 | $400.00 |
| 7 | Motor Coupling | 1 | $325.00 | $325.00 |
| 8 | Charger | 1 | $800.00 | $800.00 |
| 9 | Cables | 50 | $5.00 | $250.00 |
| 10 | Meters | 1 | $130.00 | $130.00 |
| 11 | Shunt | 1 | $30.00 | $30.00 |
| 12 | Vacuum Pump | 1 | $225.00 | $225.00 |
| 13 | Vacuum Switch | 1 | $135.00 | $135.00 |
| 14 | Misc | 1 | $300.00 | $300.00 |
| Total | $6,135.00 |
The answer to this question is always dependant on your individual needs. However there are some general guidelines to follow to improve performance of your EV.
Here’s what to look for:
In general smaller cars (usually 4-cylinders) work well enough such as Saturns, Dodge Neons, Honda Civics, Toyota Yaris, Kia Rio, etc. Pickups in terms of design work the best as you have ample room for battery storage as well as the ability to carry the extra weight.
The newer vehicles can be a bit more complicated to work on due to the many electrical components. However if a vehicle is too old it might be difficult to find replacement parts.
One last point one this subject is since this vehicle will be your daily driver make sure you pick a vehicle you are comfortable driving, both inside and out. It doesn’t seem to make much sense to spend $10,000 or more plus a good deal of time only to be driving a beat up old car.
We will not delve too deep into the various batteries available. The most common batteries used in conversions are flooded lead acid. The reason is they are readily available, relatively cheap, and mostly dependable. The second most commonly used are sealed lead acid batteries. They don’t last quite as long per charge as the flooded and are quite a bit more expensive, however they are maintenance free.
The more exotic batteries such as Lithium Ion or Nickel Metal Hydride are not readily available to consumers at this time and are many times more expensive.
Before removing the IC components you will need to take measurements on the vehicle including the weight and distribution, as well as the ride height. Also it’s a good idea to label all electrical wires before disconnecting them from the engine.
Before jumping in and removing all the old IC components, you might want to sell what you can first. It’s easier to sell an engine you can show working.
The first step is to remove the IC components. This includes the engine, fuel tank, exhaust, radiator, fuel lines, wires and hoses. Talk to your local mechanic to get help with this part if needed. It’s possible they could help you later on with installing the larger components.
To install the motor you will need a profile plate (usually the parts distributer will custom build one for you with the purchase of a kit), motor ring, hub and bushing. If your vehicle is common enough they should have the schematic on hand. Although electric motors can be assembled for direct drive, it’s best to keep the clutch. This is not only easier on the transmission but also on the driving experience.
For detailed instructions on installing the motor consult the distributer.
For the remaining parts installation is straightforward. In general you want to place them close together and as out of the way as possible. You want to leave as much room as possible for batteries if you plan on placing some up front which is a good idea for weight distribution. The controller requires it to be cooled constantly in order for it to work properly so make sure it’s situated in a well ventilated area. The potbox is usually mounted on the surface directly opposite when you open the hood. All wiring is routed underneath the vehicle to the battery pack.
A few of the batteries can be placed inside the engine compartment if there is room available, otherwise you will need to place them in the trunk. The batteries weigh a significant amount so you want to place them as low as possible to maintain a low center of gravity. You also want to distribute the weight of the batteries as evenly as possible so the weight distribution is the same as when it ran on the IC system.
Batteries that are in the same compartment as passengers will need to be placed in a box. This is generally a good idea whenever possible. The box can be made out of plastic, painted plywood, fiberglass, or sheet metal. If you have access to a welder you can custom build a battery rack so it fits as low as possible in the wheel well. The spare tire will be placed on top of the battery box. You want the battery box to be well ventilated when charging the batteries. It’s possible to wire a fan in series with the battery box and charger so it turns on only during charging.
Once the components are installed you will need to wire them. A wiring diagram should have been sent to you along with the parts when you ordered them. Consult this document for proper installation.
With all the parts installed and wired correctly you should be ready for your first test drive. Double check the connections and battery charges. When you turn the key on you will only hear the vacuum pump start up which will last a short while until the correct vacuum has been reached. You will notice all the sounds a car usually makes but are drowned out by the motor. Test all the components and gauges you installed for proper functionality. As you drive the vehicle test the brakes as well as the acceleration.
Like any vehicle your EV will require good maintenance to ensure the longevity and the pleasantness in driving an EV. All battery connections need to stay clean to ensure proper contact. If you’re using flooded lead acid batteries you will need to regularly check the water level about once a month. Make sure the tops of batteries stay clean to stop any build up of contaminations. Regularly check the batteries since one poor battery can damage the rest of them.
It’s best to fully charge your EV every time it’s used. This will ensure the longest life to the batteries. If you can park your EV in a garage at night this will also prevent moisture buildup and increase the life of your EV. Due to the batteries your EV will be slightly heavier than it was originally so good tire maintenance is a must.
If this is your first EV conversion and first time driving an EV it will take some time getting used to the new driving techniques. You will find yourself trying to use the brakes as infrequently as possible to increase efficiency. The batteries take many charges to reach full potential so don’t be discouraged by the low range initially.
Have fun with your new conversion and don’t be afraid to show it off to friends and family who will surely be impressed!
This information is provided as is and SimplyEV will not be held liable for any damage, injury, or death that may result. There are inherent risks to working with electrical systems and one should consult with a professional if unsure as to the proper handling and installation.